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About some of the terms we use
Prints are produced in series called editions. Every edition contains a number of prints made from a single plate in a single run. Unlike unlimited edition prints (also known as open editions), that can be reproduced an infinite number of times, limited editions are (as their name suggest) made in limited amounts. Limited editions can contain anywhere between 2 and several thousand prints, depending on the technique used and intent of the artist. Prints from small editions retain exclusivity and reachhigher prices than large edition prints.
Every print in a limited edition is numbered, usually in pencil at the bottom of the print. This number (that looks like a fraction) is called a print run number and it shows the print’s position in the edition. The print run number is vital for determining the value of a print.
The denominator (the bottom number in the fraction) will show you how many prints were printed in one edition. The upper number (numerator) will show you when each print was created during the run. For example, if you see a 15/100 number on your piece, that means that you have the 15th print from the edition that contains a total of 100 prints.
As far as print run numbers are concerned, the rule is simple: the smaller the number the bigger the value. First impressions in the print run usually reach higher prices since they are considered to be the closest to the artist’s original idea.
During the printmaking process, the artist tests various ideas, colors, and compositions. These prints pulled out during various working stages are called trial proofs. Trial proofs can show only a part of an incomplete print and they always differ from the final piece.
When the artist is satisfied with the finished plate, a B.A.T. proof is made. B.A.T. is short for “bon à tirer,” a French expression meaning ready for printing. B.A.T. proof serves as an example of how a final art piece should look like. B.A.T. proofs are sent to the printer to ensure that the entire edition matches the artist’s original vision.
Artist’s proof (also known as épreuve d’artiste, or E.A) is an impression of a print, taken during the printmaking process to review the state of a plate. In the past, artist’s proofs were the first prints pulled off a fresh plate but nowadays an artist’s proof can be pulled out at any time during the print run. Artist’s proofs are identical to standard edition prints, but unlike regular prints with fractions, these prints are usually marked with A/P (or E.A). Artists usually keep artist’s proofs for themselves so that they can borrow them to various institutions for exhibition purposes when the rest of the edition is sold out.
Apart from trial and artist’s proofs, you may also encounter a print marked with P/P or H/C, which is short for printer’s proof and hors d commerce proof. Printer’s proofs are complimentary prints given to the publisher. There’s just a handful of these and their quantity depends on the number of printers involved in the printing process (each printer gets one proof).
H/C proofs or hors d commerce proofs (which in French means do not sell), on the other hand, are intended to serve as samples that artists present to dealers and galleries.
Artist’s proofs, printer’s proofs, H/C proofs and trial proofs aren’t meant to be sold, but often they too find their way to the market. Proofs are particularly desirable among collectors due to their rarity, or in case of trial proofs, their ability to provide valuable insight into the artist’s creative process.
As with Proofs they are particularly desirable among collectors due to their rarity, or their ability to provide valuable insight into the artist’s creative process.
This is an excerpt from the article about Limited Edition Prints
Prints are placed straight in against the glass, taped and strung ready to hang.
Caring for your artwork at home
Ideally pictures should not be hung above radiators. Extreme or rapid changes in temperature cause paper and wood to dry out and adhesives to fail
Damp can cause pictures to ripple. If the ripples touch the glass, the picture might stick and be hard to remove. Damp also encourages fungal growth - likely to show as brown stains. Conservation framing can slow these effects, but it is always best to avoid hanging framed pictures in humid conditions. Allow six months before hanging pictures on newly plastered walls
Use two hooks on the wall, each set about a quarter of the way in from either side of the picture. Check that the cord, wire or other hanger you use is designed to support the weight of your artwork.
Dust frames or treat with a soft brush, rather than risk applying water or cleaning fluids. If cleaning fluids have to be used on the glass, apply them to a duster first (rather than spraying the glass directly); take care not to let the fluids touch the frame
If you find any evidence of discolouration, unsightly brown dots, small insects under the glass or that the brown paper tape sealing the back of the frame has come unstuck, return the frame to the framer.
Out of the light
Try not to hang pictures directly opposite large windows as sunlight fades colours and discolours paper. Special UV-coated glass can help to slow this down. The Fine Art Trade Guild has set industry-wide standards for printing and framing materials. Ask your framer about the ways in which you can preserve your artwork for the long-term.
Handle with care
When carrying and transporting a picture, grasp the frame firmly on both sides. If you have to store pictures, make sure they are stacked vertically and the right way up. When stacking pictures, stand them 'glass to glass' so that the hangers do not damage the frames
Storing prints is an important part of taking care of them. Prints should be stored flat, either in or out of mounts, layered between sheets of non-acidic interleaving tissue. Never put your prints on surfaces like corrugated cardboard or wood; not only are these materials acidic, they also have textures that can imprint themselves on your artwork. Loose prints should not be stored rolled up. Prints that have been mailed in tubes should be flattened as soon as possible.